Double Phoenix Trembler Hairpin

China, late Qing Dynasty
Gold, kingfisher feathers, deep green jade, mother-of-pearl glass beads

Double gold hairpin, formed by two long branches joined at the base and adorned with two confronting phoenixes. The birds are made of chased gold, with blue decoration of kingfisher feathers applied using the diancui 點翠 technique. This technique consists of fixing thin kingfisher feathers onto a metal mount to achieve a luminous blue surface that changes with the angle of the light.

The phoenixes are embellished with deep green jade, placed on the wings, crests, and ends of the decoration. The beaks of the two birds are connected by a wire threaded with a mother-of-pearl glass bead. Two other mother-of-pearl glass beads are located in the center of small flowers arranged in the middle of the tail plumage. This arrangement reinforces the balance of the composition and draws the eye towards the central axis of the ornament.

The two birds are mounted as tremblers, according to the Chinese principle of buyao 步摇, literally "that which oscillates with the step". Fixed on fine springs, they vibrate slightly when the hairstyle moves. This mechanism animates the object and gives the phoenixes an almost living presence. In Chinese head ornaments, this mobile effect fully contributes to the refinement of the adornment.

The motif of the two phoenixes clearly evokes an aristocratic or courtly world at the end of the Qing dynasty. Associated with gold, diancui, and deep green jade, it refers to the repertoire of high-ranking female ornaments. The phoenix, an auspicious bird, expresses feminine dignity, elegance, prosperity, and harmony.

The piece is distinguished by the quality of its construction, the richness of its materials, and the mobile nature of its decoration. A gold pin has been added to the reverse, allowing the ornament to be worn as a lapel pin.

Comparison: a set of five gold pins, probably from the same workshop, based on the shape and cut of the jades, was sold at Bonhams, Fine Asian Works of Art, San Francisco, on December 13, 2010.

Dimensions: 10 × 5 × 2 cm.